12/8/09

Contouring Cheeks - Let's talk face shapes

We'll start with an introduction to faces:

Oval Face
Length equal to one and a half times width.
Forehead is wider than the chin.
Prominent Cheekbones.
Face gracefully tapers to a narrow oval chin.

Round Face
Your face is as wide as it is long. This may vary a little but generally the measurement is close.
Face is widest at the cheeks.

Oblong
Longer than it is wide.
Forehead, cheekbones and jawline are all about the same width.
Can tend to have a prominent chin.
Has an elongated appearance.

Heart
Narrow at jaw line, wide at cheekbones/and or forehead.
Similar to oval, but the chin tapers to a point.

Square
Your face is about as wide as it is long.
Forehead, cheekbones and jawline all about the same width.
Squared jawline is the most obvious feature.



It is considered that the Oval face shape is the 'Ideal', now don't go throwing yourself off any tall buildings if you don't happen to have one... and don't get your plastic surgeon on Speed Dial quite yet. With contouring and hairstyle you can achieve the 'look' easily. We're going to focus on the makeup end of things...

Contouring an Oval (as well as Heart Shaped)Face:

First, start with a clean face. If you have blemishes or dry skin or other issues, try a mask, then moisturizer.
Then, apply a foundation that matches your skin tone. If you need to figure this out, I suggest going to your favorite makeup shop, the girls will get you set up. Apply evenly with a stippling brush or sponge (I love that Beauty Blender) Blend well, so that there's no line along your hairline or jaw.
Now that you have a 'blank canvas' you will want to use a dark (brown or at least several shades darker than your foundation) cream foundation or cream blush.

Using a flat wide brush ( I like this one from M.A.C - 191) make a 'swoosh' much like the Nike symbol starting at the temple and ending at the apple of your cheek, making sure to go slightly below or at the natural cheekbone. It will look harsh but that's where your blending skills come in. Blend down (however not too far, only enough to soften the line) and then blend up a little. Wipe off the brush and then use a white cream foundation to hi-lite the line above your 'Swoosh' You should see a natural looking shadow which defines the cheekbone rather than changing the shape or look of what you naturally have.


To soften the square face you can highlight the center of the forehead, under the eyes, and the very tip of the chin. Then, darken the hairline by the temples and the chiseled corners of the jaw.
The last step is to always powder your look so it has true staying power.
Contouring a Round (as well as Square) Face:

First, start with a clean face. If you have blemishes or dry skin or other issues, try a mask, then moisturizer.
Then, apply a foundation that matches your skin tone. If you need to figure this out, I suggest going to your favorite makeup shop, the girls will get you set up. Apply evenly with a stippling brush or sponge (I love that Beauty Blender) Blend well, so that there's no line along your hairline or jaw.
Now that you have a 'blank canvas' you will want to use a dark (brown or at least several shades darker than your foundation) cream foundation or cream blush. Using a flat wide brush ( I like this one from M.A.C - 191) make a straight line angled down from under the cheekbone at ear to corner of your lips (you can stop before the corner of your mouth, but try a couple of different lengths first to see which one looks most natural on YOUR face.. It will look harsh but that's where your blending skills come in. Blend the underside of the line (however not too far, only enough to soften the line) and then blend up a little. Wipe off the brush and then use a white cream foundation to hi-lite the line. You have now contoured your cheekbones to give them a more Oval looking shape thereby narrowing the roundness on the sides.

Contouring an Oblong Face:

First, start with a clean face. If you have blemishes or dry skin or other issues, try a mask, then moisturizer.
Then, apply a foundation that matches your skin tone. If you need to figure this out, I suggest going to your favorite makeup shop, the girls will get you set up. Apply evenly with a stippling brush or sponge (I love that Beauty Blender) Blend well, so that there's no line along your hairline or jaw.
Now that you have a 'blank canvas' you will want to use a dark (brown or at least several shades darker than your foundation) cream foundation or cream blush. Using a flat wide brush ( I like this one from M.A.C - 191) make a straight line from your cheekbone toward your nose. Many people assume you always 'blush' downward, however to give a fuller look to the Oblong face using a straight line across the cheek is the look you want to go for. It will look harsh but that's where your blending skills come in. Blend downward (however not too far, only enough to soften the line) and then blend up a little. Wipe off the brush and then use a white cream foundation to hi-lite the line above your dark straight line.

Your final step is to apply powder to set the makeup and give a finished look. Many people use a brush, however to get the powder to actually set the makeup, you should use a puff, or cotton ball. Place a small amount of powder in the palm of your hand using your applicator of choice, then rub it around a bit to get it evenly spread, and then dab or press around your face, lifting not sweeping as you go.

It can be as subtle or prominent as you like, remember the key is in the blending. Practice, be bold and keep trying. It's fun so go for it!!

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